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Gargoyle construction can be a pain in the ass. Anal as I am, pinning them together wasn't an option. Once I realized glue wasn't the answer (stupid undercarriage linkage design!) I opted to give magnetizing a try. It took a bit to work it out, but the plunge has been worth it!

Here's how I did it:

TORSO

The depth of the sternum protrusion isn't big. I had hoped to use the 3/16" x 1/16" disc magnets but they were too big to fit comfortably for my tastes. I decided to take a chance with the 1/8" x 1/16" discs and hope that the advertising was true about rare earth magnets gaining strength the more magnets are stuck to one another.

1. Drill through the sternum with a 1/8" bit such that the bottom of the sternum protrusion is completely removed.

2. Clean it out with a file.

3. Glue a magnet it perpendicular to the chest. Once you glue the first one in, make sure subsequent torsos have the correct pole facing the same direction as the first so wings can be put on any model.


WINGS

The key to prepping the wings is to shave away enough to compensate for the width of the magnet.

1. Clip and file away enough metal so you have a rectangular open space through the majority of the wing stem. For extra measure, I used a dremel to dig out a small trench in the center of the bottom corner to allow the curvature of the magnet to settle inside just a bit.

2. Determine which pole should be facing out based on the torso pole facing that wing's side and glue the magnet in. Here's how it'll look head-on.

3. Repeat (1) and (2) for the other wing, but make sure the opposite pole is facing out from that of the other wing.


COMPLETION

Because of the weight of the wing and the small size of the magnet, you'll need to attach both wings at once. Thankfully, the lips of both wings that comprise the hole through which the hoisting post fits, coupled with the power of three magnets together, gives a solid connection that'll keep the wings in position quite well. You're first attempts might have a misshapen support hole leading to loose fitting on your stand. You can balance it reasonably well, depending on how you glue the arms in, but I'm sure moving them through the course of a game could get quite annoying. I recently heard of the Blue Stuff. Might be worthwhile setting up stems with that on top to ease movement. Either that or thicken the post connection with glue so it's more bulbous.

Anyways, the best part is storage!

Haven't played with them yet, but I'll let you know how they work out on the board. But at least I won't worry about breaking them in transit.

woooo!!! I smell a good idea I would take plastic over metal but nyway a good idea. I need to try gargs as a shield for my flyrant

Well that certainly sorts out the all-too-common problem of garg wing breakage!

All too familiar....

http://tsoalr.com/?p=173

Heh heh.

NIce. I shudder at the thought of having to do this to an entire brood... Seems to work though!

It's taken some time per model. But if you get an assembly-line attitude about it, it isn't all that bad.

My only gripe is I thought the minimum unit size was 6 when I started, so I considered it perfect that three fit in the sections quite nicely. Now that I know it's actually minimum of 8, my sense of mathematical symmetry is offended.

Well, it's a good idea, but, unfortunately, I've sworn off buying any gargs until we have a plastic alternative

WERE I to buy gargs, though, I would be using your solution

I and how do I agree! The magnetising solution is great. But I find gargoyles to be the one 'nid model I absolutely hate. I find them too ugly to let live. That and the $ cost, puts me off.

Brilliant idea! I'm also in the camp that agrees that a supposed swarm unit should NOT be sold in a metal blister, but this is a really great idea. Keep us updated on how they work out in games!